By Yue Zhang, Class of 2025
Dr. Nellie Chu is an Assistant Professor of Anthropology at Duke Kunshan University, where her extensive scholarship in cultural anthropology focuses on the interstices of labor, gender, and transnational capitalism. As an active member of the Center for the Study of Contemporary China, she co-leads the Care and Gender Cluster and has served on the CSCC Advisory Board for the past three years. In collaboration with the CSCC, Dr. Chu has been leading a CSCC-funded Student Research Project titled “Live Broadcasting (Zhibo): Spectacle, Speculation, and Migrant Labor in Guangzhou’s Fast Fashion Industry,” which examines the digitalization of commerce and its impact on labor. In 2023, Dr. Chu published a book chapter titled “Prophetic Becoming: The Prosperity Doctrine in Guangzhou, China” in New World Orderings: China and the Global South, a volume edited by Carlos Rojas and Lisa Rofel. This chapter insightfully explores the interplay of faith and economic aspiration among African migrant entrepreneurs in Guangzhou. We are pleased to highlight Dr. Chu’s meticulous research, which deftly integrates cultural manifestations of digitization with the lived experiences of labor and migration. Her analytical skill reveals the complex layers behind the global narrative of the “Made in China” label, thereby enriching our understanding of the contemporary socio-economic landscape.
Dr. Chu, your research covers a fascinating range of topics, from global supply chains in fashion and the interplay between labor, gender, and transnational capitalism, to the roles of migrant entrepreneurs in China. What initially sparked your interest in these areas and how have your research interests evolved over time?
In my initial research in Guangzhou, I was curious as to why China is often associated with counterfeit fashion items such as fake Louis Vuitton or Chanel. I assumed that migrant workers, given their large population in southern China, especially in places like Guangzhou and Shenzhen, would be heavily involved in producing and distributing counterfeit goods. However, when I began my fieldwork, I discovered something different. While migrants did play a role across the supply chain, their primary concern was not the authenticity of the goods but rather making a living, economic survival, and improving their circumstances. The authenticity of the products seems to be a secondary concern to them.
This realization prompted me to broaden my research scope from counterfeit fashion to the wider concept of fast fashion. Fast fashion often blurs the lines between authentic and counterfeit products, encompassing items that are inspired by high-end designer brands but are available at a lower cost, providing runway-inspired clothing to a wider audience. Interestingly, some designer brands have even introduced lower-priced lines to compete in this market. I use the term “fast fashion” to refer to a wide array of fashion segments that includes designer-inspired, affordable clothing aimed at diverse consumer markets. Consequently, my research evolved to focus on the dynamics of the fast fashion industry, which appears to transcend traditional notions of real versus fake.
Your research highlights the concept of “prophetic becoming,” where West African migrants in Guangzhou combine their entrepreneurial ventures with their Christian faith. How do you see the intersection of these two identities influences their strategies to adapt to a culturally and politically different environment like China, especially in terms of how the prosperity doctrine shape their resilience amidst challenges you, such as racial discrimination and uncertain legal status?
In my research, I did not initially plan to explore this area, but through meetings with numerous West African migrants in Guangzhou, I came to understand the importance of the prosperity doctrine in their lives. Rooted in Protestant Christianity and prevalent across West Africa, the prosperity doctrine posits that prosperity is a divine endowment granted through faith in God and the spread of His word. This belief plays a crucial role in shaping the entrepreneurial efforts and resilience of Western African migrants in Guangzhou, despite significant challenges.
These migrants frequently encounter systemic barriers such as racial discrimination, strict visa requirements, and, in some cases, exploitation by intermediaries, leaving them undocumented and without legal protection. Without passports or official documentation, they are especially vulnerable to policing, surveillance, and arrest. Nevertheless, the prosperity doctrine imparts a framework for understanding and navigating these adversities, suggesting that the hardships they face as entrepreneurs are tests of their faith—a devotion that will eventually lead to prosperity and salvation. This doctrine not only provides them with a source of hope but also a way to rationalize the unexpected difficulties they face in a foreign land that many initially viewed as a place of opportunity.
While the doctrine does not advocate resignation to structural inequalities, it gives these migrants a language to articulate the reasons behind these challenges. Furthermore, many migrants form informal associations based on nationality or religion, where leaders collaborate with local officials to secure some level of protection. These communities assist migrants in coping with the realities of living in a culturally and politically different environment like China, offering essential spiritual and social support.
Considering the global economic shifts and China’s rise as a major economic force, how do you think these changes affect the interpretation and practice of the prosperity doctrine among West African migrants? Are there notable contrasts in how this doctrine is realized or viewed in Guangzhou compared to other regions with similar migrant populations?
Many West African migrants who adhere to the Christian prosperity doctrine see China as a new frontier for both entrepreneurial and spiritual growth. They view China as a gateway to global economic prosperity, as well as a place where they can further deepen their faith. Unlike in Europe, the US, Canada, or Australia, where similar opportunities might be less accessible, China offers them a platform to enter the global stage. This intersection of faith and entrepreneurship is central to their experience. The prosperity doctrine compels believers to spread their faith while pursuing economic advancement through overcoming challenges, which aligns with their journey in China. Here, the country is not only a beacon of economic opportunity but also a milestone in their spiritual journey, combining material success with spiritual salvation. For these migrants, China is a global marketplace where they can aspire to become leaders, unconfined by national or regional boundaries. Their vision is cosmopolitan, viewing China as part of a larger global opportunity, and their experiences there reflect both their entrepreneurial ambitions and their devotion to Christian beliefs. In this regard, arriving in China is viewed as the initial stage in engaging with the global economy while simultaneously advancing toward their spiritual goals.
Your research on ‘Zhibo’ sheds light on the digital transformation of commerce. How do you see this transforming the traditional labor market in places like Guangzhou’s fast fashion industry?
There is growing awareness among consumers, especially among younger generations, of the negative effects of fast fashion such as environmental damage and labor exploitation. This awareness is shared widely online, along with reports of the waste generated by the fast fashion industry. At the same time, platforms like ‘Zhibo’ (live-streaming) have accelerated the production and sale of cheaper fashion products, contributing to the rise of digital commerce.
While ‘Zhibo’ marks a significant shift in the industry towards digital platforms, the manufacturing process itself has seen less change. Factories continue to operate as before, but manufacturers are now increasingly using ‘Zhibo’ and other online tools to market their products directly, bypassing large brands. This strategy has enabled many manufacturers to stay competitive, creating opportunities for local brands to expand both domestically and globally.
Before the pandemic, ‘Zhibo’ played a significant role in helping manufacturers adapt to the changing market. Yet, the transition has not been without its challenges. Although ‘Zhibo’ allows manufacturers to stay in the game, it does not always result in positive outcomes. The heightened competition has led to tighter deadlines, increased pressure to meet production demands, and a relentless drive to lower costs. Furthermore, since the pandemic, rising labor costs—particularly the wages demanded by migrant workers—have added complexity to the situation for manufacturers. The pressures of the digital marketplace, fueled by ‘Zhibo’ and other platforms, have intensified the challenges and complexities for those involved in the fast fashion production industry.
Fast fashion often faces criticism for promoting excessive consumption. Do you think live-streaming has exacerbated issues of overconsumption and waste within this industry?
The fast fashion industry thrives on the allure of speed, which is reflected in how platforms like ‘Zhibo’ function—often resembling an auction house. Here, consumers feel pressured to make rapid purchases to not miss out on good deals, the latest styles, or the fear of limited inventory. This induced sense of urgency is a deliberate marketing tactic used by companies and manufacturers to stimulate consumption. Via ‘Zhibo’ and other online platforms, brands regularly market their products as being in limited stock or present special collections in small quantities. This approach fosters a mindset where consumers are led to believe they must act immediately to secure their purchases. If they hesitate, they are told that they might miss out permanently, as the items may never be restocked. Such scarcity-driven strategy exacerbates overconsumption by nudging buyers to focus on immediate gain, prompting impulsive decisions that disregard long-term needs or the consequences of accumulating more items than necessary.
For students who are passionate about anthropology or global studies, what key skills or mindsets do you believe are essential for their success? Moreover, could you share some advice as they begin their academic and professional journeys?
Anthropology provides students with a unique lens through which to engage with current global affairs and important issues that extend beyond their immediate surroundings, broadening their perspectives beyond the campus and China. It equips them with a global vision and a profound comprehension of the diverse challenges different regions face. This aligns with DKU’s core values and presents a tangible way to practice these values in everyday life.
For those keen on anthropology or global studies, cultivating keen observational and critical thinking skills is crucial. These allow them to dissect global issues from manifold perspectives. Additionally, keeping an open mind, being receptive to a variety of cultures and ideas, is equally important. These skills and attitudes will prove indispensable across academic and professional domains, enabling them to tackle complex global issues adeptly and to leverage their insights effectively.
